Gilberto is a native from the islands of Kuna Yala (San Blas), an independent and autonomous indigenous reservation in Panama City. He is a biologist, a photographer, and a naturalist guide. He has worked with popular magazines such as Outside, Sport Diver Magazine, National Geographer Traveler and Island Magazine. 
Ryan is looking forward to his third year working with Global Works. After his undergraduate education at CU, Ryan moved to Ecuador to work for a medical nonprofit organization in Quito. Ryan currently finds himself in Santa Barbara pursuing graduate studies in Environmental Economics. 
Layton grew up in Atlanta, Georgia and is a graduate of the University of Georgia where she majored in English and minored in Theatre. She now lives in Austin, TX where she has spent the past 3 years working for various non- profits that provide after school programming and educational enrichment for middle school and high school students. Welcome Global Works travelers, parents and friends. We are excited to share with you trip updates from around the world. As our main office receives updates from the trips we will update the page as we receive news from the field.
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Update #1:
Our arrival in Panama was exciting for everyone. As we stepped out of the airport into the humid and sticky heat, participants marveled at the bright lights and development of Panama City. The wide highways and elegant skyscrapers of the capital seemed more modernized than most thought they would be, making them wonder whether all areas of Panama would be that swanky. As participants adjusted to the noise and city feel, they looked forward to traveling to very different areas such as the Kuna Yala and San Felix. Thankful that the hotel was air conditioned, we all settled in for some much-needed rest.
On Day 2 we played gringo tourists and visited the Miraflores locks at the Panama Canal. We mixed in with the international crowd easily and arrived just as a ship passed through the locks. The locks work by varying the level of water using reservoirs to raise and lower the ships, allowing them to cross the continent. A walk through the excellent museum and a short documentary video peaked the group’s curiosity and showed off how eager they all our to learn as much as possible about their new environment. Highlights for the day included a tour of Old Panama and ruins from the 1500s, including a Scavenger Hunt in Casco Viejo which allowed the group to test their Spanish-speaking skills, interact with the colorful locals, explore, and discover sodas, superstars, song lyrics, and pirates that are unique to Panama.
The third day brought our first opportunity for service and interaction with local kids at the San Jose de Malambo orphanage. The bright colors and smiles on orphans’ faces were an invitation for participants to jump right in and play. We spent the morning picking up around the property and raking, and were surprised with a drilling thunderstorm that turned participants into superheroes as they whisked orphans up into their arms and ran for cover. Highlights included the games, laughter, and helping kids with homework, as well as a rousing rendition of “head, shoulders, knees, and toes,” in a high school classroom. In the afternoon we got down and dirty and painted the front of the main administration building a brilliant pink. We also descended upon a group living house for orphans with Aids, and gave it a shiny new bright yellow coat. Many hands make light work and it was incredible how quickly 23 participants were able to paint a house. Evening brought meaningful reflection upon the day’s service, with participants beaming and excited about excellent interactions with the orphans. We went downtown and had some delicious traditional food at an authentic restaurant and got psyched for the adventures to come in San Blas with the remarkable Kuna Indian culture. Participants drifted off to sleep dreaming of white sand beaches and palm trees and looking forward to tomorrow’s 4×4 and boat ride to the island of Carti.
Because San Blas is quite remote and undeveloped, we will be posting our next update after we return to Panama City. We miss everyone at home, and are excited to share our adventures with you!
Update #2:
Trip update, Days 3-9: San Blas and the Kuna Yala
Two hours from Panama City, down a windy and hilly road, past rural farmland, men on horses herding cattle, and a vast forest that is home to jaguars, crocodiles, and tigrillos, lies the autonomous zone of the Kuna Yala. Made up of a vast mainland territory and an archipelago of more than 300 islands, it is a place that stands apart from Central America by leaps and bounds. A short boat ride took us down river and into the Caribbean, where we visited our next service site, the small island of Carti. Only as big as a couple of football fields, it is home to about 1,000 Kuna people, packed into palm thatch and sweet cane huts, and smelling of wood smoke. Our first stop was a ceremonial visit with the island chief, in a sweltering hut, who told us of the challenges the Kuna face in trying to retain their traditional ways, of the revolution that brought them independence from Panama, and of the pride the local people feel in their culture. After lunch in a breezy, seaside restaurant, we took to the boats again and headed for the island that would be our private retreat for the next five days. Motoring through placid, turquoise waters we passed islands with perfect white sandy beaches and clumps of coconut trees. The stunned students could hardly believe their eyes as the boats pulled up onto our very own perfect, deserted island. Cries of “where are we?” and “is this real?” blended with the sounds of ocean waves and playful splashing. Everyone promptly removed their shoes, deposited their bags in palm-thatch huts, and ran for the water. An evening beach volleyball game and a gentle sunset spent the last of our remaining energy, and we headed for our huts and hammocks ready for a night of rest.
A torrential thunderstorm presented some challenges for leaders Layton and Cindy, who found out very quickly that their tent was not waterproof; however, the morning soon brought the sound of the conch, sunshine and excitement about the day’s service work on Carti. Our work included cleaning and painting laminas, or sheets of metal roofing, for both a new library and a dormitory for visiting students from other islands. In addition, another group of participants fought off biting ants as they cleared land for the foundation of a deposito, or storage shed, where concrete would be poured and supplies for the school stored. At lunch, the participants got their first true taste of island cuisine and truly embraced the meal of whole fried fish that was set in front of them. They were surprisingly adventurous in their exploration of the fish heads, and to the delight of the group, one participant even tried choking down a fish eye. Another thunderstorm sent us scrambling for our own island, but passed quickly and allowed for an extended evening swim and a rousing night game of capture the flag.
Our second day of service on Carti brought a number of miscellaneous jobs, including the unloading of a shipment of maize meal and dehydrated cream for the health center, some indoor painting, and the cleaning of a dusty and long-neglected classroom. The students took on the jobs valiantly, however difficult, and claimed to feel like “Sisyphus, ceaselessly slaving over his struggle.” Some down time between jobs gave participants a chance to play with the Kuna children, spinning them through the air, making them seem like graceful birds, blissfully soaring through the heavens. When the Kuna kiddos were brought back to earth, their faces were left forlorn, “like birds suddenly rendered flightless.” An afternoon visit to the Kuna museum was a chance to get an inside glimpse of the history and culture. Students were fascinated to learn that each Kuna is born in a hammock, spends their life sleeping in that hammock, and is buried in the same hammock at death. Participants had an opportunity to handle numerous artifacts, and asked a number of excellent questions before heading back to our island for an evening meal and a roaring bonfire on the beach. For some, it was the first opportunity in their lives to enjoy the heat of the flames and the joy of throwing coconut palms onto the smoldering furnace. Others, enjoyed a night swim in the ocean, and some discovered bioluminescent plankton glowing in the waves and on the shore.
Our final workday on Carti was the most productive yet. Some completed various painting projects while others hoisted pick axes and shovels to dig the post holes for the deposito. A third group headed to a nearby island to gather sand for mixing with concrete. The afternoon brought the opportunity for more joyful interaction with the Kuna children, and a rousing game of volleyball showcased the Kuna’s skills on the court. Often practicing in a closed-off room, where balls bouncing off the walls are still in play, the kids had carefully honed their volleyball skills and trounced our team, despite various varsity players. Others participated in dugout canoe races, desperately trying to figure out how to steer the massive and cumbersome boats, some getting quite wet in their effort. We closed out our time on Carti with a dance ceremony. The well-rehearsed dances included girls with shakers and boys with reed flutes, twirling in mesmerizing circles and playfully acting out Kuna traditions, such as the drunken marriage ceremony (the wedding is one of the only occasions in which the Kuna drink home-brewed beer). Each participant was given a gift, such as headbands, molas, and hand-woven fans and baskets. We departed the island with a sense of satisfaction, and the participants celebrated with some Latin American games and an evening of sleeping on the beach, out under the stars. A bloom of bioluminescent plankton along the western edge of the beach sent sparkling yellow-green lights darting through the waves as participants splashed and kicked the glowing water.
The final day in San Blas was spent exploring another island, home to a sunken ship and a number of reef fish and coral species. Some participants enjoyed snorkeling, others found a high point off the bow of the wreck and dazzled us with flips and leaps into the ocean. After some much-needed beach lounging, we headed to Carti for a final visit and a chance to shop for Kuna handicrafts. Many picked up purses, bracelets, and other souvenirs to gift to friends and family back home. Others played basketball in the rain with the Kuna children, and as we departed for the last time we reflected upon our connection to this culture, and how the lack of tourism here has helped them to preserve their traditions. Truly appreciative of this unique cultural experience, participants headed back to our island for a final night of sleep in the sand before heading back to civilization in Panama City the next day.
A transition day in Panama City brought the welcome opportunity to shop in an American-style grocery store, catch up on errands at camera stores and mall shops, and a huge and satisfying meal at the one and only Hard Rock Café, Panama. Participants relished gigantic burgers, nachos, and Cokes, happy for some comfort food and a taste of home before heading up to San Felix and our homestay.
PHOTOS:
Update # 3:
The Homestay: The drive from Panama City to San Felix took us through the heartland of Panama, past pastureland and forest, and into a rugged, mountainous region where wispy clouds hung between the hills, and horses and dogs wandered along the roadsides. The Chiriqui province is known for its coffee and is the home of the mountain village of Boquete, a renowned retirement destination for Americans, and the Baru Volcano. As the bus pulled up into the cancha after a six hour ride, they got their first glimpses of their homestay families. The families were awaiting our arrival and greeted us with smiles and welcome happiness. As the students waited to meet their temporary parents, they chewed on their fingernails and looked worried. However, some knew immediately that their homestay would be a good experience. The worry melted away as Latina hospitality kicked in, and the students followed their families back to their new homes. Many families had young children, and they made instant friends with our students. Every house contained something surprising. Some were surprised by chickens that slept in trees, or cows that mooed outside their bedroom windows. Others were surprised by Wii systems and flatscreen TVs. Still others were treated to fabulous cooking, many raving that these were the best platacones they had tasted. The night came to a close as enthusiastic siblings eager to share time on the soccer field and basketball court pulled participants outside. All the students ended up at one of the homestay houses, dancing and sharing stories about their new homes and families.
In San Felix, we saw the first of the Ngobe Bugle Indians walking the streets in their florescent traditional dress. Our service work would take us into the indigenous area to a region known as Quebrada Guabo. Obviously unfamiliar with foreigners, the children at the elementary school stared at us with huge eyes as we pulled up.
Our projects there included building latrine-style toilets to supplement low water availability, building planters to protect the nicely painted entryway, and painting the main buildings of the school. As participants got settled on the worksite, they were entertained by teachers volunteering their services as painters. The teachers made the participants feel better about their painting ability as they dripped paint over the floor, and smudged strait lines. Participants made friends with local dogs, and even a large spider as they painted classrooms, dug holes, lifted cinderblock, cut rebar, and mixed concrete. A rousing game of ultimate Frisbee with few rules rounded the evening out and gave everyone a chance for some much-needed physical exercise.
In addition to our work in Quebrada Guabo, there was also some painting and landscape work to be done in our homestay village of San Felix. Participants made themselves useful by cleaning up and painting a central park area decorated with large ceramic pots. They also became experts at pruning, trash collection, and raking. The building clouds warned of incoming weather and cut our afternoon short after lunch. At the indigenous school, participants made significant progress with the latrine project, and nearly finished the planters. At the end of the day, several participants decided to jog home from three miles outside of San Felix with trip leader Ryan, and got more than they bargained for when the afternoon storm drilled them with pelting torrents of rain. However, clean dry clothes awaited them at their homestays, and they rounded the evening out as guests at a local birthday party for a 15 year old boy.
Only two and a half service days remain, and then we will take our homestay families to the beach and explore Boquete before saying goodbye to San Felix and our wonderful hosts, and heading to Palmar for some surfing!
Photos:
Update # 4:
The Heart of the Home-stay: At this point in the homestay, our Global Works participants have made a number of close friends. New moms and sisters, cousins and aunts are taking excellent care of our kiddos, serving up all kinds of local delicacies, such as ham and cheese tostadas, pollo asado, rice and fried dough, patacones, and empanadas. The most frequent complaint is of too much food, and not enough exercise, so the participants have been motivating each other with runs, basketball games, soccer, and calisthenics during down time.
The group is continuing to work on various projects both here in San Felix and in Quebrada Guabo. The latrine project is coming along, many of the school buildings have been painted, and the planters are complete and ready for planting. In town, participants have painted two local parks, raked and collected a huge amount of trash, and refurbished the local Cancha (covered basketball and soccer arena). While our projects have been quite focused around painting, meaningful interactions with local workers have helped the participants make connections with the people and families of San Felix. Up at Quebrada Guabo, teachers and parents of school-children continue to jump in and help our participants with service projects as well.
Highlights from the past few days include a chaotic game of Ultimate Frisbee, a birthday party for one of the homestay sons, Juan Carlos and a night of Salsa Dancing. At the birthday party, participants danced the night away, and enjoyed cake and a Batman Pinata. For many, the best part of the party was watching people swing and miss, and then get very excited when they actually hit it. Salsa dancing lessons included overly-dramatic, highly-choreographed instruction from “Sasha/Loren/Manuel, the local cross-dressing, dancing diva.” The dancers truly began to shine when a number of local teens arrived and took our participants out to the dance floor to practice their new moves. The night ended with a rousing choreographed routine the teens taught our participants, that they rehearsed almost a dozen times.
Friday afternoon brought a welcome chance for exercise at the local soccer field as participants joined locals in a huge soccer game. The large soccer field was a challenge, with long grass, scorching sun, and wandering horses, but participants worked up a strong sweat and enjoyed the friendly competition of soccer. The game was played without many rules, and was called a “free-for-all” by some. The next night brought a delightful opportunity for all the homestay families to come together with a potluck and third spontaneous dance party. At this point in the homestay, dancing has become a favorite activity for all, and is a great way for participants to burn off excess energy before falling into bed.
Today brought closure to our service projects in Quebrada Guabo, as participants applauded incredible progress on the latrine project, and the freshly-painted look of the school. Before the end of the day, the planters were full of local flora and participants left with a sense of satisfaction that their service hours had been well spent. Many students also learned how to grind corn using traditional methods, and helped with the making of tamales for tonight’s feast, hosted by the Alcalde. The day concludes with a chance for participants to view traditional Panamanian dancing at the beach of Las Lajas.
Sunday will take us to the beach with our homestay families, and Monday to the town of Boquete. Monday night we will say our goodbyes as the participants switch it up and prepare an American meal for their homestay families. We’ll be eager to share more adventures from the last lap of our Panamanian adventure!
Update #5:
Saturday morning brought participants a welcome opportunity to sleep in before beginning our final half-day of service. After lunch, while half of the group went to Quebrada Guabo to finalize the latrine project and some painting, the other
half of the group went to make traditional tamales for a special dinner with the mayor. “Everything was entirely homemade. We ground the cornmeal by hand, cut the leaves off of trees to wrap the tamales, and even pulled the strings out of mesh bags to tie them.” The experience was a chance to bond over traditional cooking, and the children of the home were eager to get to know our participants and to be involved. “It was beautiful to see our cultures come together so welcomingly.” At dinner with the mayor that evening, the group and a few of the homestay families found themselves in a huge and beautiful home, designed by the mayor herself. The mayor’s husband rode up on a spirited horse to get the party started. The language activity for the evening was to have a conversation with the mayor or her husband, and participants found themselves learning about her family of diplomats and supermodels, and interesting history of Panama. Afterwards, a rousing game of elbow tag, followed by sharks and minnows spent the last of the participants’ energy.
The next morning brought a welcome chance for rest and relaxation at the beach of Las Lajas with our homestay families. Playa Las Lajas was only a quick bus ride away. The dark sand and huge crashing waves provided the perfect setting for our chill day. Eager to get back in the ocean for the first time since our island paradise of Kuna Yala, our group immediately ran into the water. As the rest of the day at the beach unfolded, some group members chose to listen to their ipods or read while they got some sun, while others enjoyed games of pick-up soccer and volleyball with members of our homestay families. We enjoyed a homemade lunch, and it was clear that a trip to the beach was quite a treat, even for the local children. After we headed back to San Felix, a planning session for our Cena de Despedida was in order. Our group was excited to be given the opportunity to cook for the community as a thank you after all they’ve done for us. After some discussion, we decided our menu would be simple and yummy: chips and salsa, salad, mac and cheese, hot dogs, and cookies for dessert. Our positive group dynamic was exuberant as we made group decisions and divided up the work. We wrote thank you cards to our respective families in Spanish, which put both our writing skills and our Spanish knowledge to the test. Once the planning session finished, participants headed back to their homes to spend a comfortable evening with delicious food and cozy conversation.
Monday morning, alarms buzzed early and the participants loaded onto the bus for a day trip to the renowned mountain town of Boquete. Boquete is home to a number of coffee plantations, the only volcano in Panama, and a large number of American and Canadian retirees. The outing gave participants an opportunity to shop, eat in some excellent restaurants, and to take a short hike in the countryside. Once the group made some final purchases, they loaded back onto the bus and hit a grocery store, where the small cooking groups divided up to buy supplies for the night’s goodbye dinner. Four shopping carts of supplies later, the bus headed for San Felix. At home, the groups began cooking and the locals and families pitched in by donating their kitchens and supplies. As families began to arrive, they sampled the participants’ menu, and enjoyed heaping plates and large cookies for desert. In a brief closing ceremony, participants read their carefully written Spanish thank you letters, bringing tears and hugs to all present. The night ended with dancing and goodbyes, and participants headed to their houses for a final night of rest in San Felix.
Once the roosters woke our participants up on Tuesday, they packed their bags and left their San Felix homes for the last time. The goodbye was filled with unexpected tears and reflection upon the incredible homestay experience. The long bus ride to Palmar surf camp was bittersweet, and everyone was excited to get the opportunity to try surfing, but sad that the homestay portion of the trip was over. After four hours, we arrived at the surf camp, ready to hit the waves. After finding our rooms, and waiting for the crashing high tide to subside, participants learned surf theory, and practiced jumping up from imaginary surfboards drawn in the black, volcanic sand. When it was finally time to take to the water, participants were thankful for patient instructors, who were kind as they wiped out over and over again. With a feeling of triumph, many participants managed to stand up and catch waves. Rain came, but did not chase the surfers out of the water. Hunger was what finally brought them stumbling back to the beach. After dinner, evening brought a time of reflection and appreciation for a fantastic homestay experience, as well as skits re-enacting memorable moments from the trip. After a heated game of poker and some ice cream, participants drifted off to bed, eager to rise at dawn and catch some morning waves.
Update #6:
On day 19, the participants awoke early, eager to catch waves at Palmar surf school. By seven a.m, nearly everyone was on the beach, ready to get into the water. After many successful trials and countless failed attempts, the bedraggled participants dragged themselves back to the hotel restaurant for breakfast. During the day, they explored the beaches and were amazed by the sculpted landscapes of cactus-covered cliffs, deep green leaves, and rocks of all shapes and sizes. The afternoon brought a rousing poker tournament, using beans of various colors for poker chips. After three hours, only a handful of contestants remained, and the next day they battled to the finish, until Brandon trumped them all with a full house.
Day 20 was another early morning, as participants raced to beat the tide. After another satisfying surf session and pancake breakfast, the morning was free for beach time and relaxing. Some played cards and read while others chose to lay on the beach or nap. During their down time, a crab scurrying across the sand created some commotion and served as a fun source of entertainment. The afternoon continued with games such as monopoly, speed, and Texas hold-em. For dinner, the group enjoyed whole fried snapper. The evening brought rowdy beach games such as Thunder butts and Monster, followed by relay races that got the teams working together and creating a night of competitive fun. After the games, the group gathered around a blazing fire, singing songs and roasting strawberry marshmallows until high winds drove everyone inside.
As the final day of the trip began, there was a sense of sadness in the air. A couple of members in the group woke up early to catch some waves for the last time. In the midst of eating our last breakfast in Palmar, we enjoyed the view of the beach, packed our bags, and enjoyed each other’s company. On the way back to Panama City, we stopped at an artesania and bought souvenirs. After a delicious dinner at a restaurant out on the Pacific, with a terrific view of the Panama City skyline and the ships lined up waiting to enter the canal, the group returned to the hostel for a final slideshow, giving of awards, and closing ceremony. It was a bittersweet moment, but a great end to a fantastic trip filled with memories that will last a lifetime.
Sammy says: “The experience of being completely immersed in another culture was incredible and unforgettable, as are the friends I made along the way. This trip completely exceeded my expectations and made an everlasting impact on me.”
Alyssa says: “This trip has been an unforgettable cultural experience and an amazing window into the lives of many incredible people.”
Emily says: “On this trip I was able to both see and experience a completely new culture; for three weeks I lost my identity as an American and became Panamanian instead. Additionally, I will always treasure the friendships I made on this trip.”
Claire says: “I now have two mothers: a New York mom and a PanaMama “
Dietrich says: “Sand, everywhere!”
Pearce/P$ says: “Sand, everywhere!”
Brandon says:
“Go big or go home!”
Meghan says: “I’ll never forget the friends I made during the trip, or my homestay family.”
Caroline says: “I will always remember the friends I made with the people of San Felix and my experience with my homestay family.”
Andrew exclaims: “The home-stay was an incredibly difficult, but gratifying experience. I now have a little brother!”
Aidan Breen/ the sickest kid evarrrrr whispered softly to himself: “I am very super famous super super famous.”
Ray states with passion: “it was rad brah, id do it again!”
Klevisa says: “EPIC TRIP!!! Panama 2011 was awesomeness!! The best places, the best people, the best memories!! An unforgettable trip that will stay with me forever!”
Tim says: “On this trip I not only learned a great deal about the different cultures we encountered, but myself as well. This was just an incredible trip!”
Rachel Says: “I will never forget the friends I have made and all the incredible conversations that we have shared.”
Derek says: Its Panama…
Patrick and Annie say: “The past three weeks have introduced us to a series of new experiences and we enjoyed every minute. Everyone that we met on this trip will remain in our hearts as our Panama family”.
Jessica says: “On this trip, I have not only been introduced to a new culture, but I have become a part of it. I can now officially say that I have lived the life of a Panamanian teenage girl and I loved it.”
Molly says: “These past 3 weeks have been some of the best times of my life. Not only have I had the opportunity to envelope myself in a new and interesting culture, but I was also able to built some incredible friendships along the way. The people and the places I’ve encountered in the past 3 weeks will remain in my heart forever.
Riley says: “There’s a cliché saying asks that you live every second to the fullest… I think we have accomplished that in the last couple of weeks. Panama has been an oasis, an escape from our individual worlds. It was a gift to be given the chance to leave it behind and open our eyes to what is really out there, just beyond our reach.”
Katie and Brittny both loved the trip, but headed to bed early and did not have a chance to type their comments.
Cindy says: “What an amazing trip! I can’t believe how close we got as a group, and how much I’m going to miss everyone. The homestay experience was amazing, the San Blas Islands were beautiful, and surfing was totally intense! I look forward to keeping in touch with everyone, and seeing all the fabulous photos. I’ll never forget you guys.”
Layton says: “Panama was an unbelievable experience that challenged me, touched me, made me laugh and cry, and which has been firmly and fondly logged in my memory as three awesome weeks I’ll never forget.”
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